The first swell of the season has come and a flurry of activity has descended on our home (and town). Surfboards can be seen on every other vehicle, under arms of bike riders or skateboarders all looking for the perfect break. My house must have at least 10 boards scattered (carefully,scattered) all around. They are propped up in my husbands office, stacked up on a shed, laying on our picnic table, and when a new one comes home it can sometimes be found laying on a bed. These boards are treated with the most care, since they cost a small fortune, but more, they are the E ticket ride.
Surfing is addicting. When you catch your first wave you want another then another then another. When my kids were young I used to have to start walking away from the beach to get them to come out of the water. I understand how it is, since I grew up surfing myself. And even though I don't surf anymore, I haven't forgotten the thrill. Sometimes, I even suggest to my family to go jump in the ocean, have a surf, get wet...it's a great way to get some exercise, clear your head.
I thought of this post because there is surf, or it was here a couple of days ago, and because just this morning I had a phone call from a friend of mine. He has an agency, the kind that represents actors and models. He said to me that he needed an older woman who surfs. Would I be interested? I said I am neither of those! ok, well, I am older, but not one who surfs anymore. He tried to get me to say I would do it. I told him I couldn't . He said "Oh just try it, you are letting me down". Finally, I said ok, on this condition : I'll do it if it's in Honolulu, where the surf is gentle and the water is warm. And if my sons can come too (in fact my whole family) to help push me in the waves. Then i'll think about it. He grumbled " You are no help at all". Ha!
...the husband...,the older woman, attempting many moons ago..., the ancient art of surfing...