Thursday, November 13, 2008

Lunch Break

photo by dubock

The first swell of the season has come and a flurry of activity has descended on our home (and town). Surfboards can be seen on every other vehicle, under arms of bike riders or skateboarders all looking for the perfect break. My house must have at least 10 boards scattered (carefully,scattered) all around. They are propped up in my husbands office, stacked up on a shed, laying on our picnic table, and when a new one comes home it can sometimes be found laying on a bed. These boards are treated with the most care, since they cost a small fortune, but more, they are the E ticket ride.

Surfing is addicting. When you catch your first wave you want another then another then another. When my kids were young I used to have to start walking away from the beach to get them to come out of the water. I understand how it is, since I grew up surfing myself. And even though I don't surf anymore, I haven't forgotten the thrill. Sometimes, I even suggest to my family to go jump in the ocean, have a surf, get's a great way to get some exercise, clear your head.

I thought of this post because there is surf, or it was here a couple of days ago, and because just this morning I had a phone call from a friend of mine. He has an agency, the kind that represents actors and models. He said to me that he needed an older woman who surfs. Would I be interested? I said I am neither of those! ok, well, I am older, but not one who surfs anymore. He tried to get me to say I would do it. I told him I couldn't . He said "Oh just try it, you are letting me down". Finally, I said ok, on this condition : I'll do it if it's in Honolulu, where the surf is gentle and the water is warm. And if my sons can come too (in fact my whole family) to help push me in the waves. Then i'll think about it. He grumbled " You are no help at all". Ha!

...the husband...,the older woman, attempting many moons ago..., the ancient art of surfing...

xxx lori


  1. It sounds gorgeous, I've only tried surfing once but would love to have another go. Maybe the modelling job would pay for a holiday in Honolulu!

  2. hi! i just love your surfing stories! I've never tried it myself, having been mainly brought up in landlocked african countries! Pity he didn't fall for the Honolulu holiday idea...

    While I'm at it - this is also the official notification of meme-tagging by me, if you are into that sort of thing!


  3. hey Lori - you should do it!! i bet you can still surf! is it like riding a bicycle? it sounds and looks like so much fun...never got beyond the small boogy board type of surfing - but LOVED that too.
    great post xx

  4. I'll just be happy walking along the edge of the sea and the sand. So I'll just admire everyone else having a go.

  5. I always loved the Beach Boys music (Surfin` USA...) and I totally admire anyone who can DO it. Wow, so you are a surfin` girl! - it just needs the "`", doesn`t it? And no, you are younger than me and so can`t be an older woman!! What a liberty!

  6. well btm, if you come here i will brave the cold and have a go out with you!

    hi karen, i can see how it would be hard to learn to surf not being near the sea. But,one of the best surf spots in the world is in southern Africa, Jeffereys Bay,maybe you can go there! i am glad you like surf stories because i've got a lot.

    Val, you are right,maaaybe, but I really dont like the cold, see the top photo of my husband in his wetsuit? then the bottom, no wetsuit? i like no wetsuit,warm water,small is not like that around here right now. But...if we were in hawaii...

    fire byrd, that's ok,I like to do that too!

    Geli, oh man,beach boys, that takes me back, high school,surfing,boys,the beach,what a time it was! ok, i'm not old old,but in this youthdriven society I live in, i am not in the young catagory,but who cares,right? my dear husband says age is just a number.

    Ok Val, i'll go if you will ;)

    thanks so much everyone for great comments!!
    XXX lori

  7. Lori, we just saw news of Southern California and all the FIRE! Hope you are not affected! 100 houses have burnt down? Wow. Sounds horrible.

  8. geli, i will email you, too much to write here

  9. "Older." Wonder what that means? Over 30? Over 25?

    Beautiful pictures!

  10. Surfing is big here too, as you probably know. Most of my male friends used to surf, some still do - I only tried it once but was never a waterbaby! I think you should go for this opportunity and just have a total blast! Loved the pics!
    By the way, I've tagged you for a meme over at my place... :-)

  11. Reya, yeah, I know, I wonder what he meant!

    Absolute, Yes, you are right, you have some world class surf in South Africa, my husband used to surf professionally and was on tour there once upon a time. I, however, would be far too shy to do this with people watching plus photographing !!! Plus i am more than a little rusty! will get to that meme soon..

    thanks for the great comments!

    xxx lori

  12. Lori - heard you need some rain for those fires! will try send you some from here.... stay safe x

  13. Thank so much Val, we are praying for the fires to be put out soon!

    xx lori

  14. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.


xoxo lori